Rikke Hubert: Copenhagen-Found Levity


In the fashion world, dichotomies abound. Some say of designing, it’s either sink or swim. For Rikke Hubert, it’s float. “I am only thinking one collection at a time,” says the 28-year-old Dane, whose new work reflects at least one duality in her life. The anticipated release of Hubert’s womenswear collection, only the third since her label HUBERT debuted, is worth the wait.

Many of her Autumn/Winter 2008 mix-and-match separates in sleek black feature stuffed collars, sleeves and shoes. The effect of a body walking in these clothes is not imbalance. It’s buoyancy. And it shows the easygoing, bohemian side of Hubert’s fashion, a side that can promote your gait to a series of visual moments.

Inspiration is snatched off the corners of her Copenhagen neighborhood, Nørrebro, Hubert says. The multicultural district is famous for its laid-back artsy lifestyle. To catch the eye, Hubert infuses her designs with colorful details not out of place at your local Greenwich Village—a yellow, waist-cinching wide belt, a rosy peek-a-boo ruffle, an indigo camisole with ruched straps.

It’s the collection’s evening attire that marks the gap between Hubert’s bohemian whimsy and her nighttime self. While the aforementioned designs could be admired from afar, these skimpier pieces are meant to draw people in and start conversations. “As most girls, I also love to go out and meet other people. It makes me feel alive,” Hubert says. Each of these garments, best accompanied by bed-head, reveals a long swatch of skin.

Her tailored cocktail dresses are cut high, exposing mid-to-upper thigh. To the traditional leotard, Hubert applied a deep, deep V-neck. One leotard comes with a cape-like shawl that has a low-cut braided collar. The other comes with stirrup leggings.

Instead of a fashion show next year, Hubert plans to release her Spring/Summer 2009 collection in a movie. The film, Dina, Didde & Dagmar, is named after its three lead female characters. “It is showing my image and universe as a designer,” she says. With the potential for three distinct themes next year, Hubert’s universe may expand into fashion’s first TRI-chotomy.

TEXT BY Andrea Francis

THE SPRING ISSUE

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